Friday, August 11th - Murray Beach Provincial Park to Summerside, PEI - 50kmsToday we travelled 10kms to Confederation Bridge. This is the bridge between New Brunswick and PEI. It is a spectacular sight, 13kms long. Unfortunately you are not allowed to cycle or walk across so we had to have our bikes shuttled across. The shuttle leaves each 1 1/2 to 2hrs and only takes 6 bikes each trip. The weather is a little unsettled lately, sometimes cold, hot, rainy so it is a crap shoot to decide what is the right clothes to wear. As soon as we were across the bridge a couple of the faster riders had to hightail it to the campsite to unload the van so it could go in for service. All the other riders spent a lovely day shopping. Our campsite on the Northumberland Strait was a Provincial Park and the staff were very friendly and helpful. Sonie and I had a great feed of fish (hadock) and chips in Summerside overlooking the water. Of course I had to wash them down with a couple of beers...
Saturday, August 12th - Summerside to Cavendish Beach (home of Anne of Green Gables) - 60kms
After getting a bit lost in the morning, and fixing a couple of flats we continued having a lovely ride through the countryside to PEI. We all went different routes today. Some stopped by Woodleigh Park which is a park of minature models of castles and other buildings. Really amazing. Others followed the historical routes, looking at different styles of farmhouses, etc. The fields are full of colours - gold, green, red. Lots of potatoes!!! The tea rooms were just incredible. Rejeanne, Noreen and Rachelle stopped at a tea room, hustled into sharing a table with a lovely couple from Florida (Kathy and Ernie), who ust happened to be staying in the same campground as us (the KOA), after talking a bit (which were we just a bit famous for) Ernie just happened to mention that he was going deep sea fishing the following day and if he caught anything, he would bring over some fish. And he did!!! It was beautiful. The views in PEI are amazing. We had a bit (a huge - approx 30km) head wind, but we managed to make it all the way to Cavendish. This head wind is a great reason for us to stop along the way for a large piece of home baked piece of lemon meringue pie (or apple pie, or fresh raspberry cheesecake...). However, we couldn't all spend the day visiting the lovely towns of PEI because it was mine turn to cook, so I had to be back in camp at 4pm. Tonight we are having pork chops (more like pork steaks), 30 cobs of corn, 30lbs of potatoes, plus vegetables, etc. The chops were simmered in a pot of mushroom gravey. And if this isn't enough, Stan Gieshan of Royal Printers Ltd. of New Westminster for the "2nd time" on our adventure supplied dessert for us. Three large cakes were consummed with no difficulty at all. On behalf of all the riders, thanks again Stan!!
Sunday August 13th - Cavendish Beach (Day Off)
A day off to sightsee, visit Anne of Green Gables cottage, tour the beautiful beaches, clean bikes, do laundry, etc...
Monday, August 14th - Cavendish Beach to Charlottetown - 50kms
This is where the blue print for Confederation were drawn up in 1864 which came into effect in 1867. We visited the building where it all happened (and stepped on the step that a hundred million of people had already stepped). There was a live play about it on the steps of the building and a movie about how important it was at the time for the Maritimes to join the Canadian Federation. Very interesting stuff. PEI is a very beautiful province that everyone should put on their list of places to visit. It would appeal to everyone - the beaches, the dunes, the red earth, the red cliffs, the fishing, the cycling, the scenery is just incredible, etc. I could go on and on, but I am too far behind in the journal now, so I am now trying to catch up.
Tuesday, August 15th - Charlottetown to Pictou, NS - 65kms
Thie weather hasn't been very kind to us since leaving Quebec. Today was no different. It was a light rain all the way for about 60kms to the ferry that takes us from PEI to Nova Scotia, the last province most of us will visit. We travelled 1 1/4 hrs across the strait listening to live gaelic music from two musicians. A lot of fun. We arrived at the docks and had another 15kms to ride when the storm hit. It rained so hard that taking shelter under big oak trees wasn't any help. We finally got to camp, drenched, to find our campsite flooded. We looked around for the high spots and that where we put our tents. We were lucky that the rain stopped after about an hour and the ground soaked up most of the water. The campground owner, Cameron, greeted us with a platter of fruit and veggies, dip, cheese and crackers and chips. Thank you very much Cameron!! It was a really nice gesture!! Also because of the lateness of the hour, we ordered in pizza (10 large ones) and didn't cook. The outfit that supplied us made a mistake and sent us 20 large ones instead, but that wasn't a problem for us. We gorged ourselves that night, and gave a whole bunch to the neighbours and had pizza for lunch the next day.
Wednesday, August 16th - Pictou to Linwood - 120kms
The weather is still the pits, but the weatherman is telling us that it is going to get better by lunch time. Well lunch time came and went and the weather was still the pits. It finally started clearing around 4pm. We had a nice ride and not too many hills. Our campground was really nice overlooking the ocean. Some people went for a swim before supper, but it is way too cold for me. Some others had to cook dinner and that was me. I am not going to tell you what we had for dinner because you might think that all I think about is food. It was a nice ride today. We followed the highway for most of the time, but some people chose to take the scenic route (hwy 4) that weaves on and off the hwy. We were treated to person playing bagpipes tonight at the campsite - very nice way to end the day.
Thursday, August 17th - Linwood to Dunvegan - 114kms
The weather has finally cleared and today we cross the causeway to Cape Breton Island on our way to the Cabot Trail. We followed hwy 19 up the coast to McLeod's Beach Camp. Another campsite on the ocean. Again some went swimming, and others did bike repairs while others had happy hour. This part of the country reminds me very much of New Zealand with lots of beaches and rugged coast. Today was the first time I wore my sunglasses since Quebec.
Friday, August 18th - Dunvegan to Cheticamp - 60kms
Another terrific day riding along the coast, the sun still shining as we passed through small fishing villages. We had a nice wind at our backs so it made riding easy. Now every day we make a lunch and as we entered th town of Cheticamp the smells of cooking fish, crab and lobster almost make us throw our lunches in the garbage and go for a real meal. Must be having peanut butter sandwiches for the 80+ day in a row?? But we resist (something about a budget) and ride out to the national campground of Roberts Brooks. This is where I sit now catching up on my writing while everyone else catches up with their laundry. Boy oh boy did we ever disturb the black flies at this campsite!! They were small by vicious!!
Saturday, August 19th - Cheticamp to Dingwall - 72kms
The clouds are starting to move in again, it is cool and expected to rain s we start our ride on the Cabot Trail. We have two major hills today, the first one is about 5kms long, rising to 1500 ft with an 8-10% grade. The second one is about 3 1/2kms long, rising 1500ft with a 10-12% grade. The first one has small level spots and the second has none. Both hills start at sea level, but even though it was cool and wet, we were all sweating profusely. You might think the uphills were bad, but the downhill was worse than the up. Some people even walked down the downhill. Along the road to camp we stopped in a little hut to warm up and dry out a bit. Renaud and cooking crew cooked up an 18lb roast beef, 30lbs of mash potatoes and trimmings. I am happy to say that there was no leftovers. Any for dessert we finished off with six 9" pies.
Sunday, August 20th - Dingwall to Ingonish Beach 40kms
A very short ride along the Atlantic Ocean. The first part was steep rolling hills along the rugged, but beautiful coast and the last part was a gentle rolling highway, with very little traffic. We arrived at our camp and we were very disappointed to find no showeres, no running water, pit toilets, no potable water (it has to be boiled), but it had a shelter 30' x 60' with 2 wood stoves, benches, tables and we made a shower in the back for the ladies. The sun came out, the beer cooler came out and the wine casket showed its face, dinner was on adn everybody was happy. PS Marthe tells me that there is a beautiful campsite 1kms from here, but we are too lazy to move. Rejeanne and Jean Pierre have a couple of games for entertainment this evenig - wow. I will get someone else to describe them!!
Monday, August 21st - Ingonish Beach to Indian Brook
A real nice ride with only one large hill. A short ride again today, but a chance to dry things out, have a nap and even a chance to read a little. Our days are full from 6am to 9pm everyday. Never a dull moment, if you are not putting up or down your tent, cycling, cooking, wasing dishes, loading or unloading bags off the truck, you are doing work on your bike or laundry. But the nice thing about all this is it is a lot of fun! Tonight is a special night because Brian and Dennis are leaving for Newfoundland and we are having our wind-up celebrations. The campsite we are staying in has a big restaurant so we had a nice dinner and wind-up speeches. Various people stood up and talked about many funny experiences that happened along the way. Donna made us all a medal which we individually had to go and receive. I don't think that everyone realizes yet what they have done - cycled across Canada from sea to sea, including Cape Breton Island, a total of over 8,000 kms. I suppose the most important fact is that the average age is 60 years old, the oldest man 74 and the oldest woman 68. One thing we have learned is that you don't have to stop enjoying life because of your age.
go to Part Ten
Back to main journal